Sunday, June 12, 2011

How To Repair A Nintendo NES, or "Don't Buy A 72-Pin Connector!"

You know it, you love it, your parents help you hook it up.

As a child, the Nintendo Entertainment System was a magical box of joy.  We could never take a screwdriver to this sacred temple, for fear that the magic would leak out and we'd never see our friends Mario and Link again.

Problem was, over time the magic simply stopped coming.  We'd see the famous grey screen flashes or bizarre corrupted sprites.  Well before any of us even knew the definition of the word 'meme', the idea took hold that somehow blowing into the cartridge would make it work.  As if the magic inside were powered by human breath and saliva particles, sometimes it even worked!

Everyone had their own trick, from putting the cartridge on the edge and shotgun slamming it down (like I did, ugh) to putting another cartridge on top before hitting the power button.

Well, we're no longer children, and as such, we now understand two things - one, that there is no magic hidden inside, and two, that blowing on your cartridges does nothing but potentially shorten the life of your console if you accidentally get spit in there.

So why doesn't it work?  It's the cartridge connector, and the problem is twofold.  First, with the action of pushing in and down on the cartridge to align with the pins inside, the pins become worn and flatten against the inside of the connector.  Second, due to environmental dust and nastiness building up on the contacts of your cartridges, it also builds up on your cartridge connector, blocking the contact between the pins of your connector and the pins of your cartridge.

Many cartridge-based consoles have problems similar to these, but on the NES it's likely exaggerated due to the loading mechanism.

A simple search will not only tell you that the connector is the problem, but in most cases they'll tell you "You need to buy a new 72-Pin connector right now!"  No, you really don't.  Take note, anyone who tells you that you need a new connector is trying to sell you a new connector.  I'll repeat that, since many of us, myself included, have been told for years that this is the only way.  You don't need a new 72-pin connector.  Don't buy one, and certainly don't throw yours away.

Why?  Generally speaking, these cheap knockoff connectors coming out of China are of lower quality than an original, and will fail much, much faster.  In addition, in some cases the stock connector fails when using the official Nintendo Service Center test cartridges, meaning some pins are defective.

Not all are cheap, though - some connectors are manufactured with higher-quality gold pins which are said to make better contact.  I have no personal experience with these, but if you can get the thing working without spending a dime, why bother?

With that said, let's get to the repair.

The Nintendo pictured was purchased just yesterday at a yard sale.  When I got it, it would not load a single game I stuck in it, even with multiple attempts, making it a fine example.

Six screws here, none hidden.

Turn the system over and remove the case screws.  They're easy to find, and none are hidden - one in each corner, one at the top, and one at the bottom.


Now you're likely to find out how well it's been cared for.  This particular system has piles of dust that would probably carbon date back to 1986.  Grab a can of compressed air and blast the crap out of them.

Remove the shielding.

Next, we remove the RF shielding.  There are seven screws in all - three on the right, two on the left and top. Once the screws are out, pull it up to slide it off.

Dear Nintendo, why oh why didn't you keep the top-loading design?

Now, our cartridge assembly is exposed.  This is where the cartridge slides into the connector and is pushed down to align with the pins.  There are six screws - two of which are slightly gold-toned and just a bit longer than the others.  Pay attention to where these came from - they'll need to go back there.  There's one of the regular-sized screws in each corner, and the slightly longer screws go a bit down from the top corners, going through the motherboard to attach all three pieces together.  Pull up and forward to remove the assembly from the connector.

There you are.

Now our culprit is exposed.  Just pull up and slide the connector back to remove it.

You've been a very naughty connector.

All right, we've got the problematic connector out, so let's get to fixing it.  If you have a dental pick, this will go much more smoothly.  With a dental pick, wrap the pick around the pin and simply pull it forward so the pin comes straight up.

I don't have a pick on hand, so I've used a tiny screwdriver.  A flat head 1.4, if you have it available.  Using the screwdriver, push the pin to the side so you can get under it, and gently pull the pin up.  Do this slowly and very carefully.  If any pin gets broken, you will need a new connector.  Keep in mind, also, that these pins should not be bent outside of their grooves, they should be pulled straight up.  If they bend to the side, simply stick the screwdriver in the other side and gently pry in the other direction until it's centered again.

Once you've completed the dental surgery, it's time for the dental cleaning.  An old toothbrush is actually the quickest and easiest way to clean these connectors, but if you don't have one on hand, a scrub brush for dishes works just as well.

Contact cleaner spray is the best option for cleaning contacts, but if you don't have any on hand, use rubbing alcohol.  Dip your brush in the alcohol and scrub away.  Don't skimp on the scrubbing, the accumulated nastiness will keep your cartridges from making contact.  Allow the connector to dry - if you used alcohol, and it still smells like alcohol, it isn't dry yet.  While it's drying, go ahead and clean up your games with a cotton swab and either contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol.  Dirty games most likely won't work, and will probably add their own grime to the cart connector, meaning you might have to clean the thing up again next week.  If you'd like, invest in an NES cleaning kit.  It will be very, very worth it.

Now that it's all cleaned up, we can follow the instructions in reverse to put it back together.  Pull up on the motherboard and slide the connector back into place.  Don't be afraid when pushing it back on, these things are built like a tank.

Slide the cartridge assembly back in place and screw it down - remember, the long gold screws go in the middle.

Push in a game to alleviate the death grip.

Now that the connector and assembly are back in place, slide in a game cartridge (pre-cleaned, please).  Push the cartridge back until the connector slides inside.  It'll be hard, especially the first time, which is why I recommend doing it before assembly.  The death grip is perfectly normal - it'll take a few uses before it loosens up.  Use a third party cartridge, especially Tengen, if you have one, as the boards tend to be a bit thicker.  I don't have any on hand, so you get Super Mario Bros. 2.

Put the shielding and case back on, and you're done!

I'll tell you again, because I cannot stress this enough - make sure your cartridges are clean before inserting them into your NES.  Clean them regularly and your games will start up the first time, every time - well, until the connector becomes worn again.  In that case, I'll see you again in 10-20 years.

7/3/2011 - A Part 2 has been added with more information.


  1. Thank you for being honest and forthcoming. I was in my search for a supplier right out of China. I wasn't interested in paying anyone on Ebay, or any other site. They have markups and I was only going to buy them if I found the source.

    Then, your webpage appeared in Duckduckgo's search engine result.

    I even found how to remove the yellow staining as well. I just bought a yellow / dirty console at a thrift store yesterday for $15.00 and with the combined efforts of your page and the other one, I can restore this thing to all glory.

    Thank you very much for being honest and sharing the truth about those pin connectors. ;)

    I'll continue to spread the word in my business I am building. Honesty sells! :)


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  2. Cool. Put a pin connector in my eBay cart. Googled. Found you article. Took it out of my eBay cart. Opened my NES I bought in an eBay lot a while back. Restored my pin connector. Viola.
    Thank for nudging my "late night, spontaneous, even though I should be sleeping" project.

  3. Great article! Another review comes along with a money-saving maniac and throws water on all the stupid "Buy our connector" ads.........:^) Thanks for this, I was considering buying one, even though I'm used to cleaning up electronics. I was going to try contact cleaner and maybe sandpaper before giving up.

    The only thing I was wondering was if I'd be just completely wasting my time with the cleaning, and your article has given me a definite NO! I was one of the "push it in on the edge and slam it down" type too, it did seem to work sometimes, but sure was frusterating. Now I can make it like new again with confidence, thanks! Cheers!

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  5. As a child, the Nintendo Entertainment System was a magical box of joy. We could ...

  6. Thanks for sharing the Tech Blog about How To Repair A Nintendo NES . That’s a awesome article you posted. I found the post very useful as well as interesting. I will come back to read some more.

  7. You don't show and pictures of where you are inserting the dental pic. Which part am in spose to pull up to clean?

    1. You use a dental pick to GENTLY pull up all those metal golden contacts inside the connector. He explains it pretty well, it's all the contacts where the cartridges slide against. Try this:

  8. I replaced the 72 pin connector and I am still getting the blinking red light... Any advice?

    1. Sometimes it can persist for some reason. If you search on the internet, you can find a simple method of defeating the red light lockout protection by shorting out two pins. See here:

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  10. hi just went ahead a cleaned up my connector and bent the pins back up into place and now the system has a death grip on games and only works if the cartridge is not pushed down any advice about loosing up the grip and getting games to work in the down position?

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  14. First, with the action of pushing in and down on the cartridge to align with the pins inside, the pins become worn and flatten against the inside of the connector.laptop repair nottingham

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  16. Nice and useful information, if you still need to replace the connector this place has a nice guide with images about replacing the nes connector.

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  19. I just took an old toothbrush to mine and it went from not working at all to now working the first time for all my games. Thanks for the great write-up. I sure do wish I knew about this when I was a kid.

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  21. I've done this, and cleaned the heck out of our connector 3 or 4 times now, and we can still only get the console working about 50% of the time :(

  22. I wish there were pictures/video of you pulling the pins, your description in words alone doesn't really tell me what I'm supposed to do.

  23. I did this and the NES works great except for one thing.
    It works perfectly but only with the RF shield off.
    When the RF shield is on, the red light never turns on, but the signal from my tv antenna gets disrupted momentarily.
    Anyone know if I'm doing something wrong?

    1. I found the issue. It turns out some of the wires going to the controller ended up getting pinched by a one of the screws and were shorting something out. I'm going to put electrical tape on these wires but if I get more issue's I'll replace the wires that got pinched.

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  39. This was very helpful up to a point. It was easy until I had to remove the connector. I pulled up as hard as I could, but I could not detach the connector from the green board. It's probably just me, but I don't know. I just kind of gave up pulling and just blew into the connector. I'm putting it back together as I'm writing this. I think that the NES that I'm working with is in better shape than the one you got, because in one of the images, the metal part on the end (at the "removing the connector" image) your metal peice was kind of yellow, as mine was silver. So I don't know if it was me or the way the NES I have works, but I just couldn't remove the connector. I'm only ten years old right now, so it might be me. I'm just hoping and praying to God that it works. Thanks for the article, though! It really helped me alot!

    1. Hi, I saw your post. I fixed mine a several years ago following this advice, worked great. You say you're having trouble removing the connector from the green circuit board. I'm not sure, are you pulling it 'up'? The connector actually slides off the back of the green board, towards the Rear of the unit, not up. Also make sure you've removed all the screws and the green board is loose.

      Let me know if this helps or if you're still having trouble, I can walk you through it. Good luck! Bellarmine

  40. Hi, I saw your post. I fixed mine a several years ago following this advice, worked great. You say you're having trouble removing the connector from the green circuit board. I'm not sure, are you pulling it 'up'? The connector actually slides off the back of the green board, towards the Rear of the unit, not up. Also make sure you've removed all the screws and the green board is loose.

    Let me know if this helps or if you're still having trouble, I can walk you through it. Good luck! Bellarmine

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  44. Low quality replacement connectors may have far worse consequences than merely "failing much much faster". A blogger pointed out that tin contacts on the replacement 72-pin connector result in contact fretting that damage the gold contact on the game cartridges: (scroll down to the first update, or just search for "gold")

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  56. There is an another way to fix damaged pin(s). 60-72 Pin converter ruined my Nes connector too. 2 top pins were broken by famicom converter. I extracted broken pins using a needle. It is very easy to do. And extracted two good pins from the middle of the connector and replaced with broken ones. Generally those middle 4-5 pins are not needed by most games. It is working again without any problems.

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  64. Honestly I think that's a waist of time to try, and clean or rebend the connector contacts. My boyfriend has been working in the field of electronics since high school. From his experience just replace the 72 pin connector! It's cheaper to replace it, than it's worth try, and fix it. Why re-invent the wheel, when you can get a new one. If you are not carefull enough to bend them in the right order, you may break one or two of the pins. You will be pissed later you didn't get a new connector instead. Getting a cheep connector would be worth the time, patients, and money. I just want to let the readers know that the bottom row of contacts on a 72 position card edge connector gets the most stress. That's what the proper name is for that connector.

    Card edge connector!

    My boyfriend is building his own 1970s TTL computer using the very same concept. He is using 7400 series ic chips for the whole computer. It will most likely take him several months to complete.

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